Skinhead fashion is widely described as smart, clean and tough.
Because skinhead is a working class subculture, the clothing had to be ‘affordable, practical and identifiable'[1]K. Borgeson and R. Valeri, Skinhead History, Identity and Culture, 2019. Skinhead fashion has remained largely the same throughout the history of skinheads[2]G. Marshall, Spirit of ’69: A Skinhead Bible, 1994.
First things first: we can’t talk about skinhead style without mentioning the hair. Skinhead hair is either short or closely shaved. Skinhead girls typically have a chelsea cut (also called feathercut): bangs on the front and short hair on the back.
Skinhead clothing
“Skinhead was never meant to be about label twitching, and this guide is not an attempt to lay down the law about what you can wear and what you can’t. It’s simply a guide to what is widely worn today and has been worn in the past. There can be no room for snobbery in a cult that prides itself in being working class and just because you may have a wardrobe full of tonic suits and Brutus shirts, it doesn’t make you any better than a kid with one Fred Perry and a pair of boots to his name. After all, any prick with money can look the part, but it’s where your heart is that really counts.”
George Marshall (Spirit of ’69: A Skinhead Bible)
Throughout this article you can see quotes from the “A-Z of skinwear” section of the legendary book Spirit of ’69: A Skinhead Bible, written by a Glaswegian skinhead George Marshall in 1994.
The book gives some excellent insight into the apparel that skinheads wore and still wear today, but there’s obviously some humour in the mix, too. Like these two:
A-Z of skinwear
StyleThe stuff that oozes out of a well-dressed skinhead.
YouThe most important part of the skinhead cult. Take pride in the way you look and you won’t go far wrong.
Now that you have a sense of what’s coming, let’s jump straight into the good stuff.
Footwear
Skinheads are mainly known for their use of boots, but other types of shoes are also used.
Boots
If you know one thing about skinhead fashion, it’s most likely the Dr. Martens boots (Doc Martens, Docs, DM’s).
Doc Martens boots have remained the staple of the skinhead style since the very beginning. Most popular colors are different shades of burgundy (like oxblood or cherry) and black.
DM’s were originally made in England, but many skins feel the quality of their boots started decreasing after the company came close to bankcruptcy and moved the production to China in 2003.
Today, many skins (especially in the UK) swear by the name of Solovair. Solovair boots are made in England and look very much like Docs.
A-Z of skinwear
BootsOriginally studded army boots with steel toe caps, NCB boots, monkey boots or anything else you could get your hands on, but eventually DMs became top dog, not least because steelies were classed as an offensive weapon. Cherry red and black were most popular, although black boots lost their appeal for some when black DMs became standard issue for plods. Other boots came in brown or tan.
SteeliesSteel toe-capped boots were very popular because of their aggro potential. One kick in the balls and few would come back for more. But once they were classed as an offensive weapon, other types moved in on the boot territory.
Monkey BootsAnkle boots with the word monkey written on the sole’s tied. Popular with kids and girls because they are widely available in small sizes.
Doc MartensAlso called does and DMs, the most famous make of shoe and boot thanks to its ”air wair” soles invented by the good Austrian doctor. Very comfortable, hence their popularity. They are available in 8, 10, 12, 14 and even 20 holes (count the eyelets up just one side of the boot) and most sizes, including small kids 8-12 holes are most popular, although boneheads prefer them to touch their knee caps. Black and cherry red as standard and steel toe caps are available too. Now that the Doc has gone all trendy, they are now available in an amazing array of styles and colours. Enough to make you puke in fact.
Shiny boots are a matter of pride for skins, so just wearing them is not going to cut it. Boots also need proper maintenance: cleaning and polishing.
A-Z of skinwear
PolishProper lithe spit and polish merchants are skinheads. I was going to say that nobody likes polishing shoes, but I know a few faces who can’t get enough of it. Certainly if you take pride in how you look you can’t go out without a shine on your boots or shoes, even if they are then trampled into the ground at gigs.
BloodingAnyone with new boots risked a blooding, with all your mates doing their best to stamp on them to make them dirty. Also called christening.
Lace code
Every once in a while you might come across someone talking about the infamous “boot lace color code” that skins use to label themself as pro this, anti that or whatever.
While there might be some locations where people still do this, the truth is that most skinheads don’t give a damn about this stuff. They choose their lace color on whatever they think looks best. Most often this is either black, white or red depending on the color of their boots.
Related: Doc Martens lace color meanings
A-Z of skinwear
LacesThe colour of boot laces causes more arguments than a blind referee. The problem is that different colours mean different things in different areas. White might be NF in one town and anarchy in the next. In Montreal, yellow’s meant to mean cop killer. What makes it worse is that there is always some know-all who claims to know the lot. Not exactly Earth-shattering stuff.
Other types of shoes
Skinheads also wear other types of shoes like brogues, oxfords and loafers. Adidas Samba sneakers have also become a popular choice of footwear in the 2000s.
A-Z of skinwear
Brogues
Lace up shoe with holes punched over the toe and down the sides to form a pattern. Black, brown or burgundy in colour. Steel toe caps were an optional extra. In the States they are commonly known as Cordivans and were worn by the FBI. Also available as a very smart boot.
Oxfords
Usually plain leather shoe with square toe.
Loafers
Plain slip-on shoe usually with a fringed strip across the tongue and with a couple of small toggles tied like little laces. Usually one of the toggles falls off though. Usual shoe colours, but black most popular thanks to 2 Tone. If you’re after a brand name check out Frank Wright. Penny loafers were so-called because girls often attached an old penny piece to their shoes.
Moccasins
Once popular footwear, even as late as ’79 and ’80, but now rarely seen. Probably because all your mums have a fluffy pair as slippers.
Norwegians
Basketweave style of shoe popular with smoothies. Selatio was a popular brand. To be honest, they look bloody awful.
Braces
Along with boots, braces (suspenders) are probably the most distinctive feature of the skinhead look.
You don’t want to go too wide with your braces, as they make you look like you’re wearing a seat belt. Skinhead braces are typically 1/4 inch wide, though originally they ranged from half an inch to even two inches in width.
Whatever you decide to wear, never wear braces and a belt at the same time.
“How can you trust a man who wears both a belt and suspenders? The man can’t even trust his own pants.”
Once Upon a Time in the West (1968)
A-Z of skinwear
BracesMeant to hold your trousers up, but usually worn for style. Certainly not worn for comfort because they do your balls in most of the time. Sometimes worn over a thin pullover or tanktop. Wider originally than the quarter inch common today with, half inch, 1″ and even 2″ being sported. They were also worn over the shoulder and not around your burn until punk came along.
Shirts
When it comes to shirts, button down shirts and polo shirts are the ultimate skinhead shirts – preferably Ben Sherman or Brutus (button down) or Fred Perry (polo).
T-shirts are not an uncommon sight, especially band shirts.
The combination of an Union Jack tank top with braces became a somewhat iconic look in the 80’s among the more oi music oriented skins.
A-Z of skinwear
ShirtsAmerican style button down shirts easily the most popular. Always worn with top button undone and long sleeves rolled up once or twice. Freds usually worn with all buttons down up.
T-shirtWorn by kids since the Fifties, and skinheads are no exception. After all, not everyone can afford umpteen Bens. Band logos, footle teams, Union Jacks and the like are all popular.
Union ShirtCollarless shirt, also called a granddad shirt. Harks back to the days when collars were detachable and weren’t worn for hard manual work. Usually available in plain or striped, with left breast pocket.
Trim FitBrutus shirt, especially popular with lasses. No use for beer bellies.
When it comes to knitwear, it’s all cardigans and tank tops.
A-Z of skinwear
BlazersYep, standard blazers with silver buttons were a suedehead favourite. Often in football team colours with a club patch sewn on to the breast pocket.
CardiganFred Perry makes them so they must be okay. Chunky ones with pockets look best, but remember to leave the bottom button undone.
Tank TopSleeveless jumper popular in the early Seventies. Usually patterned, sometimes in really bad taste. Braces were sometimes worn over them.
Lambswool JumpersVery smart and very comfortable. Aaaah, or should that be baaaah.
Jackets
These days, the skinhead jacket of choice is a Harrington. Bomber jackets are not uncommon, but their popularity took a blow after racist skinheads appropriated the black bomber jacket look.
For even sharper look, you can’t beat a Crombie jacket.
A-Z of skinwear
Bomber Jacket / Flight or Flying Jacket
Also called a flighty, it must be the most popular jacket on sale today. Olive green tops the colour charts, although black ones are most popular with white power skins ironically enough. Other colours include air force blue.
Although supposedly original USAF MA1 issue flying jackets, that’s not really the case because they have epaulets on the shoulders.
Still, what everyone calls an original with a metal zip, decent zip pocket on top of left sleeve, inside pockets, and decent elastic cuffs and collar, are far superior than some of the trash sold by dodgy market stalls and shops.
Smarter left plain, but often covered in scooter patches, or decorated with other badges and sew-ons.
Reversible in theory, with the bright orange lining allowing you to be spotted easily if you bail out of a plane. Worth remembering next time you go abroad by plane.
Crombie
Despite what you may have read elsewhere, crombies were not post-1970 suedehead wear. They have been the mainstay of shady deals and gangsters for decades, and were picked up by the skinhead cult as early as ’68. Check out the 1969 film Bronco Bullfrog if your mates don’t believe you.
Short for Abercrombie, a genuine made to measure one would break the bank, so most make do with cheaper imitations, often with a lining of cheaper still red satin. Even here there’s quality and crap so go for one with some weight behind it, and a left breast pocket so you can shove a hanky in it. Velvet collars are a nice touch too.
Donkey jacket
Good enough for dockers, miners and labourers, and certainly good enough for their sons and daughters too. Best ones have waterproof orange or black plastic at the top of the back, and a nice touch would be to have NCB or the like stamped across it. Names were often written on the plain ones. Cheap, deep pockets and warm.
Harrington
Lightweight jacket, named after Rodney Harrington, a character on TV’s Peyton Place, who was always wearing them. Zip up front, button up collar. It has always been available in various colours (black, red and fawn are most popular), with a tartan lining as standard, but as with most things the quality of them today isn’t a patch on the ones being sold in ’69. Also available for a short time in tonic and Prince Of Wales pattern. Suedes loved them, but by the mid-Seventies they were High Street fashion.
Sheepskin
Coat worn by wide boys and football managers the world over, not to mention thousands of skins. Expensive, but worth every penny Plus they always turn up in second-hand shops. The ones that cover your bum are most popular. Colours to choose from include fawn and dark brown.
Mac
Smart raincoat, a throwback to the mod days. More a suede thing, and never really popular. Now the preserve of dirty old men.
Windcheater
Lightweight smock, rather like a kagoule. Originally very popular, but rarely seen these days. Meant to be shower proof and warm, but the rain and wind went straight through them.
Pants
Levi’s 501 jeans are the go-to pants of a skinhead. The smarter, more traditional look usually comes with Sta-Prest trousers.
For more punk-like look, oi skinheads often wear bleached jeans.
Army camouflaged trousers or cargo shorts are also often used, especially during hot summer days. Combine the camo shorts with a polo shirt and pair of Adidas Samba’s and you’ve got yourself a Watford Tuxedo.
Watford Tuxedo
Step one: polo shirt of your favorite oi band, Fred Perry or Ben Sherman
Step two: camo shorts to show off your legs, ’cause they haven’t seen the shine at days
Step three: white socks and Samba shoes, short cropped hair —
Hey, you! Whatcha gonna do? I’m in my Watford Tuxedo
A-Z of skinwear
Sta-PrestTrousers that never needed ironed, and very smart too. Made by a number of companies, but none could touch Levi’s whose white ones were stunning compared to other brands. Ever-prest were another good make. Colours included white, burgundy, black, ice blue and fawn.
CombatsArmy camouflaged jackets and trousers were worn by original skins, but are now mainly the preserve of boneheads. Shame.
GreensArmy trousers made of green durable material. Cheap and hard wearing.
Suits
A-Z of skinwear
SuitsThree and four buttons, narrow lapel, and either a middle or back vent or two side vents (up to 18″ long) are standard features of skin suits. Ticket pockets are another nice touch.
Competition for the best suit often saw extra ticket pockets being added, so you ended up with two pockets on one side and one on the other, and then three on one side and two on the other and so it went on.
Buttons on the sleeve were another measure of style, with three being a bare minimum and some racing up to the elbow. The bottom jacket button is usually left undone and the trousers short enough to see the top of your shoe and some sock.
Originally plain mohair or the cheaper Trevira, then dogstooth followed by Prince Of Wales checks and tonics. Summer colours tended to be petrol blue, green and navy blue, while black and brown came in during the winter.
Smoothies went for double-breasted suits in similar materials. Skinhead girls originally wore their suit jackets at three quarter length.
TonicTwo tone material that changes colour in the light. Very smart suit material.
MohairExpensive material made from Angoran wool. Perfect for suits if you can pick up the bill.
TreviraMake of cloth similar to mohair, but less expensive. Again, popular for making suits.
HandkerchiefsNice touch to finish off a suit jacket or crombie breast pocket. Silk is best. Folded in a variety of ways and held in place by a pocket stud, which often boasts a football team crest.
Hats
A-Z of skinwear
Flat capA must for every skinhead whippet owner and Andy Capp fan.
Skull capsWoollen hats to keep your head warm. Often called Benny hats after the amiable thicko on Crossroads, a soap opera which was once compulsive viewing for skinheads in Britain because of its torrid sex scenes. Miss Diane, where are you now?
Pork Pie HatNarrow brimmed trilby hat borrowed from the rude boy look. Sometimes called a blue beat hat or stingy brim too. Any colour will do, but black is most popular. A decent one will last years longer than the cheap kiss-me-quick variety.
Bowler HatSuedehead and clockwork orange headwear.
Skinhead girl fashion
Skingirls dress quite similarly to their male counterparts: button-downs, polo shirts, boots, braces, Levi’s jeans are all common. The biggest difference is the use of (mini-)skirts and fishnet stockings.
A-Z of skinwear
Mini-skirtsNow were talking! Denim (often made from an old pair of 501 s), dogstooth, Prince Of Wales, plain, tonic, you name it. Very smart with matching jacket, shirt and stockings.
Fishnet stockingsWhat every skinhead bloke’s dreams are made of. Other tights and stockings worn, including patterned ones, but obviously not as popular or as sexy. Ankle socks, usually white, are worn over them with shoes.
Other accessories & miscellaneous
A-Z of skinwear
Combs
Not much use when you’ve got a crop, Still, in ’69, hair that was long enough to be combed did pass for skinhead fashion. Steel combs were all the rage anyway, not least because a sharpened one makes a handy tool. Carried in your back pocket so all your mates knew you had one.
Cravats
Usually paisley pattern and tucked into a shirt or blouse collar. Ties only worn at weddings, funerals and when made to at school.
Earrings
Blokes started having one ear pierced in the early Seventies, then both. Girls had anything up to eight around each ear. Well before punk, some Sunderland skins wore small rings in their noses. An oddity of fashion, like Maidstone skinheads who spent a summer in the early Seventies parading around the town wearing those big plastic ears you get in joke shops. It takes all sorts.
Gloves
It used to be pretty fashionable to wear fingerless gloves. Apart from that, the nearest the skinhead cult gets to them is the boxing ring.
Identity Bracelets
Popular item of jewellery during the original skinhead period, but worn by everyone really.
Scarf
A must for the winter unless you happen to live in Hawaii (and before you ask, plenty of skins do live there). Football ones are definitely most popular, with Gillingham F.C. ones being most prized. Also paisley patterns.
Socks
Plain white sports socks are universally popular. Red is a long way behind in second place.
Tattoos
Loads of skinheads have tattoos. Football teams, bands, lovers, countries, firms, all get a look in alongside the odd swallow. A lot of London skins had a star in the centre of their left palm at one time, and another popular one is the four dots in a square pattern between your finger and thumb for those who have done time. ACAB.
Tattoos can look really smart or really tacky, depending on who does them. At the end of the day though, you’ve got to remember you’ll have them for the rest of your life and so the decision to get one done is a very personal one.
Umbrella
Suedehead accessory, often with sharpened tip for aggro.
Corduroy
Now it’s into the just when you thought you were safe department. You can run, but you can’t hide! Corduroy jackets and trousers made by Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler were quite popular at the start of the Seventies. Sad eh?
Skinhead clothing brands
Some of the most commonly used skinhead clothing brands are:
- Ben Sherman
- Fred Perry
- Dr. Martens
- Levi’s
A-Z of skinwear
Ben Sherman
Most popular make of skinhead shirt available, not least because it’s the easiest to get hold of.
Ben Sherman was a Canadian who started selling his own brand of American style shirts in the early Sixties. They soon became fashionable with mods, but it was skinheads who really put the bloke on the map.
The button down collar includes a button at the back, plus there’s a loop for hanging the shirt on the back together with a pleat. Those features along with a left breast pocket are now trademarks of skinhead style.
The earlier short-sleeved ones had two buttons and a V-shape cut out of the sleeve, then just two buttons and now just the one.
Often called Bennies, and available in plain, checked and striped.
Fred Perry
Range of tennis wear bearing the name of Britain’s greatest ever tennis player. The short-sleeved shirts were popular with mods in the Sixties, and are now standard skinhead issue.
Originally four button and then three, they are now usually only two button affairs and made from lighter material. Colour schemes were once pretty tame, but very smart thanks to the piping on the collar and sleeves.
Now available in 52 hideous shades in a sad attempt to compete with Benetton. Gone are the days when the ads ran, “Shirt by Fred, ‘Nuff said.”
Other lines bearing the famous laurel wreath logo like cardigans, jumpers and Harrington style jackets are popular too.
Brutus
Make of shirt, including the best tartan ones available. Brutus Gold were excellent button down check. Also a make of jeans, but never really popular in skinhead circles.
Levi’s
Red tag 501 jeans and jacket are a must for a skinhead.
Button flies are in vogue at the moment, but some still prefer zips – myself included. Red tag 505s have zips as standard. Orange tab jeans are frowned upon in some circles, but God knows why.
Jeans were always baggier in the original days, with skin tight ones appearing with punk.
Lonsdale
Manufacturers of boxing equipment. Their range of vest and sweatshirts became popular with mods and skins because of the Lonsdale shop just off Carnaby Street as much as for the love of the noble art.
Lee
Make of jeans, especially popular in the north before Levi’s became widely available. Just as good too.
Astronauts
Once popular make of eleven hole boot, so called because the air wair sole was like walking on the moon. That’s what it says here anyway.
Airtex
Make of shirt.
Falmers
A make of baggy jeans, popular with smoothies.
Harry Fenton
Well-known tailor in the Sixties who made a decent button down shirt. Again tartan a speciality.
Jaytex
A make of shirt, noted for its superb checked button downs.
Arnold Palmer
Make of shirt, Loud checks in unusual combinations, but not all buttondowns.
Permanent Press
Make of shirt. Excellent button downs for girls. Also made trousers that never needed to see an iron.
Royals
Faith Royal were the company who pioneered the brogue style, hence the shoe is often named after it.
Wrangler
Another popular make of jeans and jackets. Northern skins and that.